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Derma Roller – Choosing the right needle size


If you are reading this, chances are you already know a fair bit about the derma roller and how it works, and it’s just a matter of choosing the right one for your needs, still there is no harm on doing a little derma roller review, for others that happen to find this hub less informed.

The derma roller is a skin care tool, that promotes collagen growth on the skin, it does that by doing really small holes on the skin, that trigger the skin’s response to the attack, and that response comes in the form of collagen. This new layer of collagen will correct the skins previous imperfections, covering up acne scars, stretch marks, and so on.

For a better understanding of the matter we need to understand how skin works, and how it is layered. It can be split into three layers:

  1. Epidermis
  2. Dermis
  3. Hypodermis

The ones that we need to focus are really the first two, specially the dermis, since that is the place were most deformities occur, and where the collagen production takes place. The epidermis is also important since it has a direct relation to the needle size that we must choose while using the derma roller, the only problem is that the epidermis is not the same depth in all of the body, ranging from 0.05mm on the eyelids to 1.5mm on the foot sole and palms, so that would be a rough indicator of the minimum depth of the dema roller needle.

Another aspect to bear in mind is the depth where the deformity stands, usually like i said before, it stays in the dermis, but there are some exceptions, such as skin pigmentations, that lie in the epidermis itself, and in that case there is no need for a deeper needle, having this in mind we can formulate a small table relating needle size to conditions.




Acne Scars

Deep Acne Scars

Very Deep Scars

Mild Chicken Pox Scars

Surgery Scars

Severe Cellulite

Mild Ice Pick Scars

Chicken Pox Scars

Deep Stretch Marks

Anti Age Treatments

Ice Pick Scars


Thinning Hair

Extensive Hair Loss


Greying Hair




Light Stretch Marks


Derma Roller Needle Pressure

This is a popular subject also, for anyone using the derma roller, what pressure should be applied while using it, and can a smaller needle be used harder to treat a condition that requires a bigger one.

The first question is simple, it’s a time versus effort situation, if you press harder your skin will take longer to recover between sessions, the end result will be the same, and take the same amount of time; yet you will feel more pain and you will experience a lot more redness than if you use regular pressure. So it’s up to you to decide whether you can take a bit more time and for example roll the affected skin twice a week with the regular pressure, or do it once a week and suffer a bit more, on a personal note I strongly advice you to choose the first, mainly because of the less redness, you get to heal and look good at the same time.

The second question seems trickier but in fact is is not, it is always recommended you use the regular pressure, and the indicated needle length for you condition, mainly because the sharp edge of the needle is also longer in a longer needle, so the penetration will not be the same as of the smaller needle.


To Start: Establish a sterile environment

To begin, make sure you wash your hands as well as making sure that the body area you are about to treat is also clean. We also recommend that you ensure that the treatment area is clean and free from germs. You may wish to wipe down the area with a disinfectant or similar.

If it is the first time you are using your Dermaroller, some models may require sterilizing before use. Although most products do come pre-sterilized you should check before use.

Ensure that you have all the items necessary to begin your treatment including your dermaroller, moisturizer, topicaine gel (if used), antibacterial cream (if used) and any other third party products you may require. (Such as anti cellulite cream, hair loss remedy etc)

Method One – The Simple Approach

This is usually the most common way of using the roller as it requires less set up time, fewer products and fits in far better with most peoples daily routine.

Using the roller with slight pressure; roll the device back and forth four times in four directions as shown below. The treatment should not be painful and should not draw blood. You will become accustomed to how much pressure you can apply without causing any pain or discomfort.

Use the roller as part of your daily routine – you can roll every day if you wish although we recommend allowing your skin at least a couple of days of rest each week. Other users only use their roller a couple of times a week – whilst you should not overuse your dermaroller, the more sessions you have each week, the quicker you will see improvements. Note that it is not necessary to roll more than once a day.

Using a Dermaroller

Method Two: The Professional Approach

This method is involves greater preparation but only requires less frequent use of the device. It is a similar method to that which professional treatments adhere to. Treatments can be carried out whenever you have the opportunity – we recommend monthly treatments although fortnightly sessions are also fine.

When using this method, it is suggested that preparing the treatment area before hand does achieve optimum results. This means applying a vitamin rich cream to the area in the days before treatment will ensure your skin is best prepared to begin the healing process once treatment has finished.

Once ready to roll, apply a numbing agent such as Topicaine Gel to the area. This usually takes 15 minutes to activate: Wipe of the excess once ready to roll. Follow the instructions above, rolling the Dermaroller in different directions, applying greater pressure and/or make additional rolls of the device. (Do not overdo your rolling)

Skin Care After Rolling

If you have followed method two, we recommend that after cleaning the area, you should apply an antibacterial cream to protect from any possible infection. (It is unlikely this will happen but it is wise to take precautions.)

Although many people do achieve success without, we strongly recommend applying a vitamin rich moisturizer after use. (Ensure it includes Vitamin C and E as these assist in collagen production) Remember that part of the benefits of using your roller is the boost in absorption rates of topical products. Nourishing your skin at this point can reap major benefits.

You may experience a slight reddening of the area after treatment. This will fade quickly but dependant on your method, it may last for up to 24 hours. We strongly recommend either staying out of the sun for this period or using a sunscreen to protect yourself.

For Hair Loss and Thinning Hair

Unlike other treatments, use on thinning hair will not be of benefit without the application of additional products. Use these products as directed, ensuring that you use a short needled dermaroller before application(0.5mm or below)

For example – Each morning / night, after showering and washing your scalp, dry well with a clean towel. Roll the Derma Roller over the scalp in one direction (and not back and forth). Apply 1ml of 5% Minoxidil (which should be available from your local Pharmacy) to balding areas and massage into the scalp thoroughly. If you notice the scalp flaking after a few days, simply rub the dead skin away whilst shampooing your hair. Treat no more than once per day, 5 times per week.

Face Treatment:

Please take care when using the Dermaroller on your face. Do not use excessively long needles and never use the Dermaroller on your eyes or lips.

Care of your Derma Roller

Unless you are disposing your roller after use, when you have finished using the device, rinse it under hot running water. If you have used the roller with numbing cream, stand head first in the half full glass of disinfectant for approximately 30 minutes to 1 hour (but no longer). If you only used the roller gently, you need only disinfect the device on a weekly basis. Shake off the excess liquid and stand on a clean towel to dry. Please do not put the device away while it is still wet. When it is completely dry, put the roller away where it will avoid damage.


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